The Ultimate Muddy Bash Cleanup Guide: How to Keep Your RC Car in Peak Condition

We’ve all been there. The track is perfect, the mud is flying, and you’re sending your basher higher than ever. But once the battery hits the low-voltage cutoff and you look at your rig, the reality sinks in: it’s a mud-caked mess.

Cleaning your RC car isn't just about making it look "shelf-ready" again; it’s about preventing rust, seized bearings, and fried electronics. Here is our step-by-step guide to a professional post-bash cleanup.

Step 1: The "Teardown" Prep

Don't try to clean a fully assembled car. You’ll just push mud deeper into the crevices.

• Remove the Body: Hose the body shell off separately in a sink with mild soap.

• Take Off the Wheels: This is the most important step. Mud hides behind the hexes and inside the suspension arms. Use a high-quality Metric Hex Driver Set or 1/8 Wheel Wrench to pop those wheels off quickly.

• Remove the Battery: Never clean your car with the battery plugged in.

Step 2: Knock Off the Heavy Stuff

If the mud is still wet, use a soft-bristle brush (or a dedicated RC cleaning brush) to knock off the big chunks. If the mud has dried into "concrete," don't scrape it with a screwdriver! You’ll scratch your chassis and tear your plastic arms.

Instead, use a light mist of water or a 50/50 mix of water and Simple Green to soften the dirt. Pro Tip: Keep the water away from your receiver box and motor vents, even if your car is "waterproof."

Step 3: The Scrub & Detail

Now that the heavy mud is gone, it’s time to get into the nooks and crannies. Use an old toothbrush or a detailing brush to scrub around the shock towers, steering links, and diff cases.

If you’re working on your suspension, this is the perfect time to check your shocks. If they feel gritty, use Specialty Shock Pliers to disassemble them without scarring the shafts.

Step 4: Dry It Like You Mean It

Moisture is the enemy of RC hardware. If you leave your car to "air dry," your screw heads will turn orange with rust by morning.

• Compressed Air: Use an air compressor or canned air to blow water out of the screw heads and motor.

• Microfiber Towels: Wipe down the flat surfaces of the chassis to remove any leftover film.

Step 5: The "Save Your Bearings" Maintenance

This is the step most people skip, and it's why they end up buying new parts every month. Once the car is dry, you must re-lubricate the moving parts.

• Bearings: Apply a drop of MXLR Ball Bearing Oil V2 to every exposed bearing (hubs, diff outputs). This displaces any leftover moisture and keeps them spinning fast.

• Drivetrain: For metal-to-metal parts like driveshaft bones and outdrives, apply a small amount of MXLR Anti-Wear Grease. It’s "sticky as hell" but slick, and won't fling off the first time you pull the throttle.

• Driveshafts: A quick coat of MXLR Driveshaft & Gear Oil ensures your CVDs move freely without binding.

Summary: Keep It Naughty, Keep It Clean

A clean car is a fast car. By spending 20 minutes after your run to properly clean and lube your rig, you’re saving yourself hours of repair time and hundreds of dollars in replacement electronics.

Need to restock your pit bag? Check out our full collection of High-Performance Grease & Oil to make sure your next bash session is as smooth as the last one.